Brian Berkman's Blog

The Grand Cafe & Beach Review. First seen in 48 Hours.

Brian Berkman — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 08:27:40 GMT

DURING the nineties I wrote a column called Club Crawl in the Sunday Times. I was very young and enjoyed being out all night. I discovered then how much I liked the All Access, not mind you because I was a looker or rolling in money, but because of the influence I borrowed from the newspaper.

Typically I’d visit four to six nightclubs a night and report on them the following Sunday. I had a wad of plastic laminated VIP cards too great to keep in my pocket that I’d regularly boast to friends about.

The book, The Last Party and movie Behind the Velvet Rope sketch life at and after Studio 54, Steve Rubell and Ian Schrager’s feted New York nightclub where the concept of who made it past the velvet rope into the sanctum was tested and proved an alluring marketing tool. Let everyone in and no one will come.
Even though I was on the right side of the rope, I always felt out. Knowing my reason for being there was other – being neither the looker nor moneyed.

These memories, dormant for nearly for two decades, came back as we entered The Grand Café and Beach, Granger Bay near the Waterfront where the Oceana Powerboat Club is.

It is a glittering spectacle, iridescent as the setting sun fires up the white sandy beach and the iron warehouse shimmers like mercury. Light reflects off everything – the vast chandeliers and Venetian mirrors; the silver ice buckets; the diamonds on the rings and ears of patrons.

By dark, candles light up long tables of diners still with the feet in the sand. In the warehouse the pace is frenetic, long-aproned waiters shimmy past tables and through queues of people wishing they had one. This is not the spot for a quiet night out. I recognised faces from billboards and TV programmes and many from the nightclubs.
It was as if this were a reunion for Idols, Cats, Rita’s or 777’s revellers. Visionary owner Gail Behr is already famous for her Homework range of clothing and Grand Rooms and Café in Plett and Camps Bay. I hope she has the fortitude to shut this arm of her style empire come winter.

In places such as this, food is often disappointing. After all, creating something beautiful and alluring is the focus. At the Grand Café and Beach the food is excellent, especially if you let chef Seelan Sundoo prepare one of the “specials.”
I started with an avo ritz (R75), two halves with good sized prawns and Marie Rose sauce for a dash of 70’s glam. JP had the Slice of Caesar (R70) which is large wedges of lettuce rather than elegant leaves. It seemed as if there were two large lettuces in the dish. Although a great source of roughage, I’d prefer more sauce and bacon bits.

The sugar salmon (R140) is a beautiful coral fillet topped with brown sugar and soy and divine to eat but not as good as the “special”, seared tuna with a creamy ginger and wasabi sauce. Unbelievable.
When we return we will have one of their giant pizzas, a 1.5 meter rectangle for the table to share or sit on a sandy couch and eat mussels with chips (R80) sipping a Brazi with grapefruit and lime juice, cachaca and cointreau (R48).
You won’t get past the velvet rope without a reservation which you can only make via email at Beach@thegrand.co.za or by sms: 072 586 2052.
It is worth the trouble. Oh, wear something nice.

Review of River Terrace, Lourensford Estate as seen in 48 Hours.

Brian Berkman — Fri, 26 Feb 2010 12:32:20 GMT

ESPECIALLY for locavores who are concerned about the increased carbon footprint of eating food that is flown or trucked in, The River Garden café and deli at Lourensford Estate not only delivers delicious food, at a good price, but is also committed to sourcing local, estate-grown produce.

This means that the salad greens and herbs were still happily ensconced in their beds moments before they are ordered.

The trout is farmed in dams on the estate. The Healey’s cheesery (the matured cheddar is so good it continues to linger on the palate a while after you’ve swallowed it), and coffee roastery is within sniffing distance. (No, they haven’t burnt the toast!).

The more I think about the River Garden, the more I love it. It has everything I look for in a restaurant. Great location, the symmetrical gardens of Lourensford and the modernist architecture of the tasting room welcome you and, if you’re lucky enough for an outside table on the deck under a Bedouin tent, the surrounding manicured lawns are magnificent.

The food is honest and respectful of its ingredients while at the same time being sophisticated. The White Gazpacho, served with frozen green grapes and fresh bread (R32) is a twist on the classic clear tomato consommé.

The Scotch egg, a picnic favorite from yesteryear (shelled boiled egg encrusted by mince and crumbed before being deep fried, is an absolute winner). You’ll get this as part of the mezze platter (R80) which is plenty for two to share as a starter, or as a main meal of its own. Also expect Healey’s award-winning cheddar, olives, fabulous breads, coppa (Italian-style biltong) salami, and kitchen-made pear chutney.

Portions of the bobotie springroll (R38) were being served to a nearby table.
They’re cut in half at an angle and served with the oblique side northwards to look like a collection of space-age buildings. My choice of the coronation chicken wrap (R55) again confirmed the skill and commitment of the kitchen team.
Every element was right – the tortilla was fresh and soft yet held the ample ingredients in place, the layers of lettuce neatly providing a green ring akin to a sleeping bag for the creamy chicken with just a hint of curry.
Toasted flaked almonds and fresh coriander provide both crunch and herbaceous green notes.

We knew JP’s wild mushroom risotto (R55) was on its way from the kitchen as the heady and musty aroma from the truffle oil arrived before the dish did. They use pecorino cheese here which is spot on. I’d probably have used parmesan myself but concede that the pineapple notes from parmesan might overpower the delicate mushroom.

The dish that prevented this meal from being among the greatest we’ve enjoyed was the tian of smoked trout (R50). I found the Asian flavours in the marinade in conflict with the pleasing avocado and lightly smoked trout.
We shared a fabulously rich baked cheese cake (R45) topped with macerated berries with coffee to end.

You’d be wise to book in advance. We dined there on a Friday afternoon and all the outside tables were already taken. If you decide just to pop in and they can’t seat you, buy some bread, cheese and smoked trout from the deli and head to the lawns behind the restaurant for an impromptu picnic.
Lourensford Estate, Lourensford Road, Somerset West. 021-847-2328.

Subarshi and 1890 House sushi review. First published in 48 Hours.

Brian Berkman — Mon, 22 Feb 2010 07:24:14 GMT

A CHASM exists between the best sushi and the worst. I remember my first experience of Japanese cuisine at Kotoboki restaurant in the Avalon, Gardens, now long gone. It was also the first time I was served a steamed cloth to wipe my hands with before dining.

Although Japanese cuisine is much wider than just sushi, it is the combination of pickled ginger and searing-hot wasabi with still twitching fresh fish that has enslaved my taste buds. I admit I’m an addict.

As in most things, the more you pay, the better the sushi is. So, in the absence of sushi masters with exacting clients and just-landed seafood, price becomes the main arbiter of what you can expect on your plate.

Subarshi restaurant in the Spearhead building, Foreshore, has sushi available on a conveyer belt for instant gratification.
The colour of the plate determines the price you will pay. Even at their friendly prices, it is easy to quickly spend a lot of money.

Rather than sit at the sushi counter amid the colourful interior, we sat on the wrap-around terrace, perfect for people watching.
The amuse bouche, a little gift from the kitchen to amuse the mouth, is an example of their innovative approach – a California roll (rice and seeds on the outside rather than toasted seaweed as in the Maki roll) with steamed prawn and avocado in the centre, topped with a tempura (deep-fried in a light crunchy batter) prawn and then a combination of sweet chili sauce and mayonnaise as a creamy dressing.

The combination of the soft and silky (rice, avo and steamed prawn) with the crispy tempura and creamy sauce is heavenly.
Our mixed sushi selection that followed highlighted some areas for improvement: the sashimi (raw fish) was too thickly sliced, in my judgment to compensate for the failing freshness.

The result was limp tuna that tore away from the muscle under its own weight. The rolls (California and Maki) while tasty were coming apart at the seams.
There are many Asian options at Subarshi and the wok beef done with mushrooms and served on bok choy (similar to cabbage) is a robust and filling dish served with superb steamed and stir-fried vegetables and fluffy rice. At R90 it is very good value. The steamed prawn and mango salad (R47) is also good value but we were surprised at what seemed like canned mango rather than fresh.
The mojito marinated lamb cutlets (R95) would perhaps have been a better option. After all, lamb with lime and mint cannot be anything but delicious.
The green-tea smoked duck breast or Thai-style tuna seared with Asian five-spice mix might also be better choices.
Subarshi, The Spearhead, Foreshore. 021-421-3366.

The conveyer sushi bar at 1890 House Sushi in Observatory is always rightly busy. Although not inexpensive, the quality and freshness of the sushi is superb.
If there’s nothing on the belt that suits your palate just ask Uncle to prepare something for you. It will likely be on a black plate (the most costly colour) but for me the great appeal of sitting at the sushi counter is watching the chef prepare something just for me.

To demonstrate your sushi smarts, order Miso soup or Green Tea to enjoy with your sushi (rather than before or after), the low-sodium soy (with the green top), and don’t make a paste of your wasabi and soy.
Even though that’s what I do, a recent returnee from a Japanese food tour says the ginger is used as a palate cleanser, that the fish and not the rice is dipped gently into soy and that wasabi is added directly to the rice.
He also says they serve live perch. Once the sashimi is removed, the head, skeleton and tail is propped up on a stand to wriggle its last while you’re eating it.
Now that’s fresh.
1890 House Sushi and Grill, Trill Road, Observatory. 021-477-1450.

Berkie's at The Belmont. First published in 48 Hours.

Brian Berkman — Sat, 13 Feb 2010 09:53:13 GMT

TO the uninitiated there is little difference between Kosher and Jewish food. However, Kosher is the food that complies with the biblical injunctions about which animals may be eaten and how they must be slaughtered. Jewish food is typically festival cuisine from either Eastern European Ashkenazi or Mediterranean Sephardic communities. Other than taiglach, a crisp ginger-syrup flavoured doughnut, the new buffet at Berkies at the Belmont is, Kosher rather than Jewish.

The mezze selection includes well-made Med dishes such as Hummus, Baba Ganoush, pickled turnip and freshly fried chickpea falafel balls. I suppose smoked salmon could be considered Jewish food as it has all but replaced the herring as the cold fish of choice. At Berkies the “salmon” selection is vast and includes Scottish salmon, local salmon trout, home-made gravadlax and one of proprietor Barry Berkowitz’s own inventions, salmon pastrami.

The only challenge to their unmitigated success is the location on the first floor of The Belmont, a residential hotel akin to Fawlty Towers. Although it is charming in its own lavender talc sort of way, it might stop people who are not only out for great value but also for a chic evening.
Berkies has done its best to create something apart from the sitting room by hanging drapes.
These conceal one of the room’s most endearing elements, a framed portrait of Elizabeth II at her 21’st birthday.

At R135 a head, I’m more than happy just with the selection of mezzes (the pickled jalapenos and spicy tomato and chilli salad are wonderful) and breads that include bagel chips – a link to Barry’s many years at New York Bagel deli. I knew Barry and his wife Bev even before that when they worked at Dock Rd Theatre and Restaurant at the V&A, now Look & Listen.

Jews never under-cater. The vast volume of food on offer is possibly the most Jewish thing about Berkies. After the cold mezzes there are nine hot dishes, all either fish or vegetarian as the food at Berkies is Parev, containing neither meat nor dairy ingredients.
In practice the only downside of this is non-dairy margarine with bread and soya milk with coffee. For people who are lactose intolerant or on a strict vegetarian diet, it is a boon.

The Hasselback potatoes, think crispy hedgehogs sans quills, are divine but the prize must go to the mildly-spiced fish briyani with the lentil cottage pie a close second.
Fish (kingklip, hake, salmon), pan-fried when ordered, is overkill. I never thought I’d object to too much food but the truth is it comes too late in the feast to be truly enjoyed and is, frankly, gilding the lilly.

Perhaps in their exuberance to offer amazing value (and to draw people to the tired Belmont) they’re erring towards excess. Barry and Bev are veteran food people so I don’t presume to suggest they haven’t done their sums right. If they have and are able to sustain such volume and quality at R135 a head, we’re all being ripped off by every other restaurant in town.
Berkies at The Belmont, Holmfirth Road (off High Level), Sea Point. 082 358 0470.

Taj Cape Town opens. First published in 48 Hours.

Brian Berkman — Tue, 09 Feb 2010 15:41:31 GMT

WHEN it comes to exquisite luxury hotels in India, there are only two names: Oberoi and Taj. Their point of difference was highlighted to me by a crusty Colonial who behaved as if India were still under the British Raj. “Taj hotels”, he said to me with a wide-armed gesture pointing out the fountains at the Lake Palace Hotel, Udaipur, India as if he owned them, and where we were having tea, “take real palaces and build hotels.” “Oberoi,” he continued, “build new hotels to look like historic palaces.” Without skipping a beat he went on to suggest the two groups were like England and America. Oberoi, he thought, was the latter. We were guests of the fabulous Oberoi Udaivilas Hotel on the nearby shore, which is how we managed to even set foot on the Lake Palace Hotel which is not open to non-residents. Anyone who has seen Octopussy’s lair will want to visit that property. I mention this because I met Hemant Oberoi, the likable corporate chef: Luxury Division of Taj Hotels at the newly opened Taj Cape Town. Yes, indeed. True to that poncy peripatetic’s pronouncements, Taj has beautifully and respectfully restored the historic Reserve Bank and Temple Chambers or what we call the Board of Executors’ buildings in Adderley and St George’s Mall. Taj, owned by the Tata Group, has spent R500 million on this five-star 176-roomed luxury project. Rooms are divided into heritage or tower rooms depending on their situation. Aside from the conference and meeting rooms on the first floor, there are three restaurants, The Bombay Brasserie which, with its timber-clad columns, blues and silver notes is in the running for the most beautiful room in the city, Mint which is fresh and contemporary and Twankey, so named after the “Bo Peep” BOE statue in the recess above the front door. This spot is so chic and stylish it will likely attract Cape Town’s most divine partygoers for draft Guinness and oysters. Who knows, maybe it will be known as Twinkies. The Jiva Spa is Taj’s own brand and we met Ayurvedic (ancient Indian system of health) physicians from India who were training local staff. There is a grand couples’ room and Ayurvedic suite complete with shower and steam cubicle. Be sure to pop in either from the Wale street Valet car-parked entrance, or the St George’s Mall pedestrian one. Speaking of Indian hotels, I noticed a wonderful Spyro-Gyro tile pattern in the entrance hall of The Taj. I’d seen a similar one at The Imperial Hotel, Delhi designed by Colonial architect and town planner Sir Edwin Lutyens (who also worked with Sir Herbert Baker in South Africa) and which was very similar to the design at Britannic House, London in BP’s historic headquarters. If the pattern looks familiar to you too, you probably recognize it from BP’s logo. During a tasting from Bombay Brasserie’s Indian menu, general manager Michael Pownall said to me that superlative service was the one component that his Taj bosses were still striving for. If Taj Cape Town even gets Asian-style service half right, the experience will be streaks ahead of any other luxury property here. Taj Cape Town, Cnr Wale and St George’s Mall. 021-819-2000.

Review of Camil's & Cafe Chic first published in 48 Hours.

Brian Berkman — Sat, 30 Jan 2010 09:05:07 GMT

I FIRST met Camil and his wife Ingrid in front of a huge, wood-burning stove at Residence Klein Oliphants Hoek guest house in Franschhoek. I don’t recall what he was cooking but do recall that I wanted to eat it. Years later at Bouillabaisse restaurant in the village they produced easy-to-eat cuisine rooted in the excellence of the Dutch/French kitchen. Although they arrived in Cape Town last year with their eaterie at The Rockwell, it is only in their newest spot, hurriedly vacated by Geisha Noodle Bar in the Cape Royale, Green Point that I first visited. It is a glamorous room: smart chairs, gleaming floors and elegant napery with occasional oversized thrones. You’ll recognize the glass “blowfish” lights from Bouillabaisse. There’s a café area offering their famous crepes but the dinner menu is sophisticated and affordable – a too infrequent combination. The starter at R55, shredded duck with chilli and ginger tossed through greens with an oriental dressing is delicious and such good value it might be sufficient for an appetite smaller than mine as a main. I’d already tasted the smoked salmon blini off their bar menu which was good. Ingrid recommended the veal rib. I was expecting a chop so was pleased to receive a large, juicy cut, still on the bone. The veal is oven-roasted (I like it rare) and served with a watercress and potato emulsion and sweet-wine pickled onions. The seed-rich mustard mayo delivers tang. R135 is very reasonable for an elegant, well-made dish such as this one. Rather than order dessert from their menu, I opted for a savoury goat’s cheese crepe from their lunch menu. I’ll tell you more about my attempts at making these at home another time, but rest assured that here you are in the presence of the pancake pantheon, the crepe creator – these are master crepe makers. Don’t take my word for it, order the mini French pancake sampler. Once you’ve tried the Nougat and caramelized butter or the apple with calvados or the puff pancake with lemon curd you will wish you’d left room for the Crepe Suzette too. Camil’s, Cape Royale, Somerset Road, Green Point. 021-433-1227. www.camils.co.za Café Chic has newly opened in Breda Street, Gardens. Breakfast, lunch, dine or lounge on the wrap-around covered terrace or in one of the many glamorous rooms in this large Cape Victorian restoration. I like that they serve breakfast all day and look forward to returning to a breakfast sandwich of kassler chop, scrambled eggs and mushrooms (R52). I started with a Caesar salad which won’t win points with purists but was good to eat with boiled egg, chicken, bacon and croutons. The blue cheese-filled litchi salad also caught my eye (R60). My monkfish (R115) (a very tasty and white firm-fleshed fish) was, according to the menu, soused with vanilla and fresh ginger. I found it so subtle and ethereal I had to ask the waiter to check if either ingredient had been included. His report was in the affirmative. Had I been served this dish without first seeing the menu, I’d proclaim it excellent, perfectly cooked and divinely served on mash with a deep-fried onion cross-section as garnish. The slow-roasted pork belly (R95) with fondant potato was also attractively served and flavourful with herby thyme notes but I thought it needed a sauce to help it on its route from my throat to my belly. This is the sort of place Sally Bowles would love. “Divine decadence, darling.” Good coffee. Café Chic, 7 Breda Street, Gardens. 021-465-7218 www.cafechic.co.za

Nomu Fonds and Tokara Deli.

Brian Berkman — Fri, 22 Jan 2010 08:29:00 GMT

FOR a while Woolies kept a range of liquid stocks in one litre long-life containers before inconveniently discontinuing them , just as I became reliant on them. They’re back in store now, albeit at half the size. Now that I’ve tried Fonds, the new concentrated liquid stock from NoMU foods, there’s no turning back. The bottle looks rather like an old-fashioned cough mixture dispenser and the thick, glossy concentrate (200ml that dilutes to six litres), looks like cough mixture. I think of it as medicine for my food. We often make a risotto-style dish with rice-shaped pasta and mince. When we made it using the Beef fond, the dish almost tasted like something from a restaurant. It added a depth of flavour and a sheen that wasn’t there with the stock powder we usually use. We also added a drop of the Vegetable Fond to steaming carrots with very good results. I look forward to trying the lamb and chicken Fonds and hope the chaps at NoMU, being the innovators they are, will deliver a Fish Fond soon . I’m looking at olive oils differently now. The Deli Cat Essen at Tokara’s The Olive Shed, Stellenbosch, offers tastings of their range of oils. Some are from single groves of trees while others are blends. As the snob that I am, I reached first for the Premium bottle which is a blend of Leccino, Frantoio, Coratina and Mission olive varietals but found that I enjoyed the more run-of-the-mill multi-varietal blend best. The Deli restaurant is new. Foodies will know about the fine-dining Tokara restaurant which remains but the Deli now delivers delicious, quality food at a fraction of the price, in a family-friendly environment. You can order a selection of platters, the antipasti for two is recommended if you want to take time and soak up the atmosphere before moving to cooked dishes; as is the cheese platter for a savoury end to the meal. We were equally impressed with the Tokara Elgin Sauvignon Blanc which we quaffed while thinking about mains. The weigh-and-pay system is perfectly suited to those with differing appetites and I liked the option of having tasting-size portions first before returning with a front-end loader. At R18/100g I thought it extremely good value. I found the food tasty and well made, even though the selection lacked the pizzazz I associate with dining-out. Buffet food here is what you’d expect from friends who’d invited you to weekend lunch on their farm. Culinary fireworks are, after all, just a block away at The Restaurant, so it makes sense that the offering of delicious roasted chicken and lamb with a selection of salads is what you want to eat. Not only is there a little-people friendly menu, but also a selection of wooden toys and books. The biggest appeal though will be tree houses designed like weaver-bird’s nests and organic-shaped timber climbing frames in the gardens. The views from anywhere on the Hellshoogte road are vast but from inside the glass cube structure at the Deli, breathtaking. We began our meal outside but by the time we were ready to end it, we were too hot and headed for the air-conditioned comfort of inside. My uncle visiting from London said he knew of nowhere in Europe where good food was served in sophisticated surroundings with mountain and valley views such as we had here. I think he’s right. www.tokara.com 021- 808-5900.

Quarters Hermanus. First published in 48 Hours.

Brian Berkman — Fri, 15 Jan 2010 11:57:27 GMT

MUCH of the accommodation available in central Hermanus is either English Country or French Provencal in style, so the contemporary roominess of The Quarters is very appealing. Because it is newly built, albeit in the historic centre of Hermanus, there is off-street parking available for hotel guests, which is about as rare as finding parking in Paris or Clifton.

There was some controversy during the building on the site of the old library and the structure was originally intended as an apartment block. Not only does this mean that all rooms have fully functional kitchens, but also that the quality of workmanship is excellent, built to last.

The Marine Hotel has long occupied the premier position and reputation in Hermanus, right at the cliff face overlooking the sea. The Quarters’ position however, also delivers views (there is a large picture window in the bedroom that looks right out to whales frolicking in the sea) but is at the centre of village life with craft and market stalls in the immediate surroundings. Unless you’re after a quiet, rarefied stay, I can’t think of a better position in Hermanus.

We were in one of the nine suites with a large sitting room and big-screen TV and dining area, but there are also nine standard rooms that can be easily converted into family suites by closing a corridor door. This makes sense if you’re travelling as a family or need somewhere for your security detail, driver or pilot to stay nearby.
Durban’s Quarters Hotels are smart refurbishments of historic buildings whereas this one is brand new. They do however all share Quarters’ high level of personal service by an all-female management team. I liked their energetic approach that appeared out-of-the-box, like arranging a kayak excursion for conference delegates.

Food is promising at the Kitchen Bar restaurant in Harbour Square, under the hotel. The scallops are served on the shell, poached in chardonnay and Roquefort sauce with fresh herbs. (R59). The tasty sauce goes especially well with their home-baked brown bread. Salmon Carpaccio with lemon, capers and avocado cream cheese is another good option as a starter. (R50)
Ox tail is slow braised in red wine with butter beans, carrots and mash (R95). Absolutely delicious tasting but three of the four tail bones needed a lot more cooking. On seeing me struggle to wrestle the meat free, they brought another juicy, meaty bone to the table.

When chatting to the manager afterwards, I shared my doubts that other diners would receive the same good treatment, but he assured me otherwise.
The grilled calamari with sundried tomato, feta and chili on fettuccini (R69) is another good choice. The man-sized portion of calamari was deliciously tender and the pasta was lightly sauced, the way Italians like it. Lighter fare includes sandwiches such as chicken and mayo (R35) or BLT (R35) served with side salad and chips.

The restaurant menu is also available for in-room dining.
There is a deli in the building along with a snazzy jewelry store, ideal to select something sparkly for your loved one while you’re there over the Valentine’s Day weekend. If you book soon, you should still be able to find a R3200 suite for that weekend.
www.quarters.co.za 028 313 77 00

De Hoop Collection & Rijks Country House. First published in 48 Hours.

Brian Berkman — Fri, 11 Dec 2009 15:13:47 GMT

THE mainly limestone coastline of the 36 000 hectares World Heritage Site that is De Hoop Nature reserve faces the Agulhas bank. The beautiful, but windswept coastal reserve called Koppie Alleen, forms part of the Whale Trail Hike and is as wild and rugged as you’d imagine the salty crew in Moby-Dick to be. I had the feeling I was standing at the very edge of the earth, as the wind blasted us and we saw whales in the distance.

While travelling from the historic OpStal homestead and surrounding accommodation you’ll see around 300 Bontebok and 50 Cape Mountain Zebra, which are rare elsewhere. De Hoop also has around 70 of the total 4800 African Black oystercatcher population which are surprisingly tame. Pods of Southern Right Whale are also common here as is the Cape Griffon Vulture which makes De Hoop its home.

Best is to stay over for a few days in a wide range of self-catering accommodations that will suit most pockets. These are The Opstal, The Melkkamer and Koppie Alleen, each offering a different experience. We stayed in one of the three comfortable Opstal Houses, accommodating six people in three large bedrooms. The gourmet kitchen is almost as well fitted as my own and with staff on clean-up detail daily, it is a pleasure to cook there. A possible downside is having only one bathroom, but at least there is a separate loo. We loved our very large and private stone-encircled braai area in a Milkwood clearing.

There is no mobile phone reception and neither TV’s nor radios but there is an unexpectedly good restaurant, the Fig Tree, serving country fare like butternut soup, rack of lamb, grilled snoek and delicious malva pudding if you’d rather eat out. There are trails around the 19km vlei as well as a tennis court and a small pool if you need to be more active. For me, however, the appeal of the De Hoop Collection is to be in near, absolute quiet, unspoiled surroundings, brilliantly bright stars and to braai or cook together with friends.
www.dehoopcollection.co.za

Anyone over 40 will remember the Ceres/Tulbagh earthquake. Amazingly it took me 42 years to visit Tulbagh for the first time. Aside from Church Street which is the largest collection of National Monuments in one place (famously restored after the quake), it is wonderfully inviting, cradled by the Obiqua and Winterhoek mountains. The Rijk’s Country House is situated on Rijk’s Private Cellar wine farm. We were overwhelmed by the thousands of Iceberg roses, all in bloom when we arrived. The visual contrast of the white-washed Cape Dutch-style units, the green lawns and the brilliant white Icebergs is arresting, not to mention the intoxicating scent (which surprisingly didn’t give me hay-fever) .

Interiors are elegant and unfussy with flat-screen TVs and fabulous double-headed showers. This is the kind of place where you’d be comfortable for longer than just a weekend. We loved looking out over the river and mountains beyond from our bedroom window. I’ll go back in the dead of winter to enjoy the snow-capped mountains.

Tulbagh CBD (such as it is) is less than 5km away. We had a delicious lunch (and good coffee) at Things I Love deli and décor shop in the centre of town and toyed with going to the local cheese and chocolate makers but decided instead just to enjoy the natural beauty of Rijk’s and their warm country hospitality and value-for-money restaurant.
Rijk’s Country House, Tulbagh. 023 230 1006.

Quarterdeck at GrandWest and Karibu at V&A Waterfront.

Brian Berkman — Fri, 27 Nov 2009 14:42:21 GMT

BUFFETS bring out the worst combination of competitiveness and greed in me – as if the vast table of plenty is a finishing line that must be, well, finished.

Having dining options is essential for those of us who are forced into a limit diet. As a diabetic, I like being able to select my own combination of things. The increasing numbers of celiac sufferers, lactose intolerant, vegetarian and vegans even will be able to work their way through a buffet easier than ordering a la carte.
For variety and value for money The Quarterdeck at GrandWest cannot be beat. I found the food quality and flavour hit and miss, but equally found gems such as the tripe curry and spicy beef curry on their Cape Malay section that are worthy of a visit.

Like a vulture that floats on the heat currents waiting for the cats to finish their kill, I scan the entire buffet offering before settling where to begin the slow tango past the laden sections of the supermarket-sized selection. Best is to start with cold dishes that offer a sour note to prepare the mouth for warmer, heartier dishes to follow.
I recommend the simple salad station where you can create and dress your own green and vegetable salad. The sour note will come in the form of herrings prepared in mustard, with apples and tomatoes, dill or creamed.

The Thai-style shrimp and noodle salad is also a good bet.
A warlike, strategic approach is needed to get the most out of this buffet. With over 100 dishes on offer, even a teeny-weenie portion of each will be too much to stomach. You will be tempted by the glistening bowl of prawns or mayo-glossed crab sticks but don’t capitulate. Soup too should also be avoided as it fills the gap too efficiently.

If you’re smart, you’ll focus on dishes that benefit from long, slow cooking. The Seafood gumbo, for example, is delicious as is the seafood Potjie, a good place to get your mussels rather than the bland option on the cold buffet.

Skip the roasted joints in favour of the stews for a more complex, layered experience. I mention the tripe again because for many people the idea and peculiar smell is off putting. If you aren’t a fan, here’s where to eat it first – Quarterdeck’s tripe curry is perfectly made.
There’s an Asian noodle section and an Italian pasta section. A bowl of noodles is a good segue into your main plate, but be warned that the garlic they use is especially pungent on account of it being mixed (typically with turnip) by the suppliers. People who share the sauna with you the next day won’t thank you for it.
I ended with their good selection of local cheeses before coffee but JP liked the Sherry trifle best from the vast dessert selection.
At R129 per person it is understandable why booking is essential.
The Quarterdeck, GrandWest Casino & Entertainment World. 021 505 7220.

Karibu has recently opened at The V&A Waterfront offering South African Dining. I loved the Waterblommetjie Bredie (R115) and the oxtail, slow cooked in Rose Garden Pinot Noir with butterbeans. (R119) but it is the side dishes that enliven the experience. Each R19, I recommend ordering four or five to share – the curried samp and Marog (spinach) and potato being the best among them.

The braai (served with roosterkoek and chakalaka or putu) is also a good choice, especially if you’re sitting outside with the docks and Table Mountain in full view. Selections vary but the “Twelve Apostles” with Boerewors, lamb chop and chicken sosatie is R119 per person while for R157 you can lose the sosatie and have a 220g rump instead. Good spot to take visitors.

Karibu 021-421-7005.