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Grande Roche and Bosman's
NOW that Grande Roche Hotel is being managed by The Mantis Collection, its management and marketing is likely to change. I’ve always enjoyed Grande Roche’s strong Germanic attitude which translates into a superbly run establishment as far as the guest is concerned. I hope this won’t change under the new dispensation.
I’ve had the pleasure of staying at a number of Mantis Collection properties both here and in London and have only the highest regard for them. That said, I have the tiniest fear that Grande Roche may lose its heel-clicking formality, an attribute I find particularly engaging.
Grande Roche is situated on the site of the old De Nieuwe Plantatie in the Drakenstein valley of Paarl and dates back to 1717 when land was given to Hermanus Bosman. It was renovated in 1876 to reflect the then popular Victorian style before being bought and updated by the Du Toit family in 1926. After a fire in 1953 it was rebuilt as a Victorian manor house.
It was finally restored to its original Cape Dutch splendour after careful research in 1991 and transformed into the luxury hotel we see today.
Immaculate is a word that often comes to mind when walking around the estate. Each blade of perfectly coiffed grass seems to lean in the same direction. Although the accommodation is a little dated, I concede that furnishings and fittings are of the highest quality and probably suited to European tastes rather than mine.
There are two reasons to visit Grande Roche. For locals, Bosman’s is our finest restaurant and despite the high cost to dine there, it offers some of the best value in terms of what is delivered on the plate. The other reason is the outstanding service. Describing service at Grande Roche as world-class is an understatement. I think I only experienced better service at the Oberoi Villas Hotels in India and at The Ritz-Carlton Hotels in KL and New York.
I especially like that Bosman’s has a Flavours of the Cape menu. Select from four courses for R580 or five courses at R620 (without wine) and expect dishes like Cape Malay Seafood curry, served in a deep bowl with perfectly cooked and glistening seafood and an accompanying jug of curry sauce to top the jasmine rice. The poppy-seed and black pepper encrusted springbok loin is one of the best dishes I’ve tasted (accompanied by a butternut and white port wine foam.) Included in the Cape menu is a trio of lamb (served with garden leaves and a smoked tomato coulis) and Tandoori spiced ostrich burger on ciabatta with rocket. Banana Papilotte with coconut ice cream is the Cape dessert selection.
Vegetarians are often ignored at fine-dining establishments but happily Bosman’s isn’t one of them. Four courses are offered at R380 and include Goat’s cheese croutons with pesto marinated vegetables and olive tapenade before Chinese cabbage and vegetable dumplings (with spiced soya sauce) mushroom ravioli with spinach and truffle foam and finally Baumkuchen and Amarula terrine served with an orange salad.
The tour de force at Bosman’s is the Epicurean tasting menu serving six courses (R530) or the recommended eight courses for R620. Relais & Chateaux Grand Chef Frank Zlomke is a hero.
Terrace suites with bedroom, lounge, bathroom and private terrace are R8600 per night.
Grand Roche 021-863-5100.
[02-Feb-09]
Brian Berkman
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