Simonsig Cuvee in Stellenbosch from 48 Hours.
AN UNEXPECTEDLY chic restaurant has opened at Simonsig Wine Estate in Stellenbosch. Simonsig Cuvee (the name given to the first pressing of grapes) has a fabulous interior with moody gun-mettle grey walls, large misplaced mirrors, empty frames on walls and a selection of the Malan matriarch’s crockery perched high above.
While a lot of the décor action is lofty (chandelier/mobiles are a high point not to mention a riempie stool dangling from the ceiling Mary Poppin’s/Uncle Alfred Style.) White vinyl poufs, dark timber floors and large, comfortable chairs and tables suggest food will also be modern and a little quirky. It is. Neil Stemmet of Koncept Design is a partner here and chef Jacques Erasmus of Manna fame directs the food.
Steak tartare (R70) instead of being crowned by a yolk, has a sunshine-yellow hollandaise that has been gratinated and blistered under searing heat. Crispy onion rings tumble around a tangle of large capers. There are generous shavings of Parmesan cheese although I couldn’t taste the Truffle promised on the menu. For me the dish borders on being too busy but it is very delicious. I especially liked that the fillet was hand chopped.
JP ordered the Salmon Gravadlax (R75). The fabulous mustard and fig flavours bring the beautiful salmon to life. Cut into rounds, the fig resembles a glorious kaleidoscope image. The Watercress, though, could have been more delicately cut. I can’t seem to eat Watercress without it appearing as I’ve swallowed a bush of it, a little like when Sylvester swallows Tweety and feathers abound.
The dish is also recommended for those with a smaller appetite.
Although all the elements of their Tuna are commonplace, the delivery as three triangles of seared tuna (R95) with a black-pepper crust on asparagus is interesting especially as it is topped with pickled ginger and in a pool of pickled ginger cream.
Yes, it is only a nano step from eating tuna sashimi but it works wonderfully. I found the veal (R140) inexcusably chewy. The escalopes are topped with asparagus and dill cucumber.
Cucumber isn’t frequently served as a cooked vegetable but it should be as it provides a wonderfully astringent note to the dish.
I was very keen to try the aubergine (R75) described on the menu as rosemary and gorgonzola roasted with olive cream and fresh pears but as we’d had a Cesar Salad to share (again leaves should have been trimmed) and they serve vegetables and roast potatoes with the mains, we declined. I was so impressed to have a salad in a wooden salad bowl. Divinely retro.
Although edible gold leaf features prominently in Indian festival food, it’s fairly rare to find it on menus. At Cuvee, it makes the ox-blood berries R55 flicker with light. It is served with a sorbet of Vin de Liza, their noble late harvest offering named after the aforementioned matriarch.
Cuvée is open from Tuesday to Thursday, 11h00 - 15h00, Friday to Saturday, 11h00 - 15h00 and 19h00 - 22h00 and Sundays for lunch. Private evening functions and parties can also be reserved. For more information or to book your table contact Cuvée at tel: (021) 888 4932 or send an email to cuvee@simonsig.co.za.
[16-Jan-09]
Brian Berkman
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