Steenberg Hotel Heritage Suites in Good, Better, Best
I have made an effort recently to avoid absolutes as their definitive nature limits further comment. After our night at Steenberg Hotel’s Khoi Khoi Heritage Suite, I am compelled to say it is amongst the finest hotel suites I’ve visited - anywhere in the world.
Unique is another absolute I avoid but when writing about the Heritage suites - and here I’m including Steenberg’s Cape Colonial and Dutch East India suites too, they are each unique - one offs entirely for the pleasure of guests.
The Cape Colonial and Dutch East suites are studies in authentically replicating another time but the Khoi Khoi suite is a fantasy that is grounded in hunter-gatherer truths.
Every aspect of the design, the cave-like feeling created by the rounded stair well, the forged iron balustrades and handles are custom designed and the rain shower, enclosed in stone and glass with timber beams is exquisite.
Aside from the décor which is the suites main appeal it also has a fully equipped kitchen. We had lots of fun with the robotic coffee machine - the type that grinds the beans, froths the milk and delivers a perfect cuppa at the push of a button.
There was also a smoothie maker. We’ve decided to purchase one for home but it should be part of all luxury hotel suites as guests like to prepare something healthful before breakfast. Even though we added cream to ours (left over from the previous evening’s risotto) it was the most fruit I’d had in ages and it really tasted fabulous.
The highlight of our stay was having executive chef Garth Almazan cook for us in our suite. While Steenberg’s Catharina’s restaurant is being totally rebuilt (there will be glass walls to bring in the views of the mountains and the distant city), breakfast, lunch and dinner are being served in the Cape Colony suite which has a very similar look to Catharina’s.
I have a great affection for Garth not only because I like what he does with ingredients and flavours, but because while he is often softly spoken he is entirely his own man.
I think I may have felt a little uncomfortable having him cook in my suite if I didn’t know him as well as I do. His menu began with Ostrich, served as a carpaccio and tartar.
It was the addition of warmly glistening jus to the plate of cold meat that caught my attention. A boiled quail’s egg and remoulade (think tartar sauce cut into ribbons rather than chopped) were served in a line on a rectangular plate.
Crayfish risotto followed. The mark of a great chef is one who with just a few ingredients can create an elevated experience. As a good cook myself I can make crayfish risotto but I bet that even with the same ingredients I could not have orchestrated what Garth did. He chopped one of the tails and cooked it with the risotto while frying the other two to serve as a “garnish”. The addition of baby tomatoes brought the slightest acidity to the dish. For the first time in a restaurant I brazenly asked for a second helping.
Beef fillet came next served with asparagus and thyme gnocchi and for dessert, a crème brule of mint, vanilla, chocolate and ginger. Had it not been for a delicious lunch only hours previously where
I quaffed copious quantities of Steenberg’s Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, I would have enjoyed the wines with dinner more - their Semillon with the risotto, Nebbiolo with the ostrich and beef courses and the always fabulous Groot Constantia Vin De Constances with dessert.
At a Steenberg wine tasting earlier in the day I was enraptured by their Merlot and surprisingly impressed by the Rose’ which is in a sexy new bottle with blue capsule and label.
At R11350 the Khoi Khoi suite is costly but for a family (sleeps four in two en-suite bedrooms) it delivers value and for those seeking an extraordinary experience, cheap at the price.
www.steenberghotel.com
[01-Aug-08]
Brian Berkman
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