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La Colombe & Jardine's AS A DESTINATION, Constantia Uitsig is almost unrivalled in that it supports three important food locations, a wonderful country hotel and a recently opened spa. The River Café near the entrance to the estate remains a wonderful space for breakfasts and light meals in a charming garden setting. Constantia Uitsig restaurant – originally intended as an after cricket dining spot, is now under the command of Clayton Bell while Luke Dale Roberts, is now well entrenched in the kitchen at La Colombe.
We had an exceptional experience at La Colombe. Not only were we guests at the hotel, which meant we had no more than 10 paces from our table to our bed, but the cuisine was superb. I liked the DIY condiments for the bread and enjoyed mulching the confit garlic with salt and oil in the mini pestle and mortar. A little exercise before a seven-course meal paired with wine is recommended.
The departure from La Colombe’s pure Provencal roots to include Asian influences is a welcome one, although some purists may argue against it. France exerted such influence on Asian cuisine, I see no reason to object to the reverse. Where Asia’s influence isn’t tasted, the Cape’s is, so perhaps chef Luke is creating something new. I found the dishes complex but perfectly balanced and not once interrupted by a flavour that didn’t belong or shouted for attention. His is masterful cooking. Special kudos goes to the fried scallops on a butternut and vanilla puree with citrus, coriander flavours and grapefruit and sauced with Gewürztraminer beurre blanc. Miso-Yaki butterfish on a sushi rice ball with a carrot and ginger butter reduction is exquisite. On serving the rice was perfectly white and yet, once probed, revealed a fine dice of carrot jewels.
Sweetbreads are so delicious to eat that even the squeamish should make an effort to try them here; pan-fried on baby lettuce with sweet onions, bacon and peas and finished with a mushroom jus and pea and mint cream. JP refused the dishes with foie gras and internal organs, and ordered warm salad of confit duck leg, artichokes, ceps, with a lentil and black truffle dressing instead. Although his veal loin was served with a grape braised shin and foie gras tortellini, (of which I happily relieved him), he found the cep cream and port and truffle jus a perfect accompaniment. JP thought our menu the best he’d ever tasted.
Eavesdropping on an adjacent French-accented table a diner exclaimed – “have you any idea how much this dish would cost in France?” Indeed I do, and the value for Michelin-star worthy cuisine here is obvious. LC is closed until July 15. The Winter Tasting menu, available until September, is R460 per person including wine.
La Colombe 021-794-2390.
I loved the crayfish risotto (with smoked tomato and basil) on my previous visit to Jardine’s on Bree, but now found it too al dente and the basil pronounced. The Soup of Love – oxtail with scallops was intensely flavoured and delicious but a little sparse. Pork belly, cooked for 12 hours and served with Asian mushrooms is another exceptional dish which, along with the seared tuna with fresh porcini mushrooms and ‘shroom risotto (perfectly cooked), confirms George Jardine’s award-winning reputation. The soufflé topped with flamed Grand Marnier is a theatrical triumph and divine to eat. However, while I concede others may like the buzz and hum, I found it too noisy. Acknowledging how important personal taste is, I cannot agree with the foodie establishment who place this restaurant on the top of their lists.
Jardine’s on Bree. 021-424-5640. [29-Jun-08] Brian Berkman Dear Brian
I am sure you are a helluva nice guy, but your latest article in Top of the Times just smacks of pretention. It makes you sound like the kind of person who would walk on their hands just to show off their Pradas, who loves name dropping, and goes to the Mount Nelson for tea just to be seen.
How haughtily can one say foie gras tortellini?
Get with it Brian, and I mean it in the nicest possible way. Foie Gras is so yesterday and soooooo wanna-be. And so downright macabre and grotesque.
Make compassion the fashion. I know you can.
Regards,
Nikki Botha
CEO - SASSI
[30-Jun-08] Nikki Botha To be honest, I am surprised that any educated person still eats foie gras. By now, all of us know how it is made and therefore cannot in all good conscience continue to eat it. Evenif a meat eater, one cannot but feel sympathy for animals that are forcefed to this horrendous extent for what is essentially a luxury product and not a necessity in any way. It would be nice to see critics and others showing us the path to compassion instead of compounding ills by rating food that encourages suffering. So easy to make changes and I hope you will. [01-Jul-08] Lejane I, for one, am not interested in fancy restaurants and arty-farty dishes, but I respect your interests and I appreciate it is your career which you love. I do, however, take exception to the torture of animals for Foie Gras.
Imagine the following situation. It is World War 2 in Nazi Germany. A man goes
in to a shop and buys a wonderful soft scatter cushion. Unbeknownst to him, it
is filled with the hair from concentration camp victims. He returns in the
following weeks to buy more. One day, someone explains to him the origins of
the cushions. On knowing the origins of the pillows does he recognise the
horrible truth and boycott that shop or does he say to that person,
"no-one tells me where to shop" ?
The same goes for Foie Gras - either one admits to the horrific
"production" and does the ethical thing, or one ignores the torture
of innocent animals. There is no middle ground. It is within your power to help. You just need to join the dots. If, somehow,
you are still not convinced, please watch a video of its "production"
http://www.stopgavage.com/en/videos.php
I look forward to your confirmation that you won't eat/promote Foie Gras
anymore. [01-Jul-08] Wayne Berger You 3 are clearly in cahoots. Why not get behind a cause that really matters and put some of your poisonous little letters into circulation around that. There are plenty of them in this country... HIV aids, rape ......... Battery chickens etc.
Read this one from mens vogue US:
Food
The American Veterinary Medical Association (the largest and oldest
veterinary organization in America) has also considered tube feeding.
In 2004, a resolution opposing the practice was introduced in its House
of Delegates and referred to a study committee, which over the
following year analyzed the limited amount of peer-reviewed literature
and visited at least one of the three American foie gras farms. In July
2005, delegates presented their arguments on both the original
resolution and a compromise version, apparently approved by an
animal-rights representative. One opponent of tube-feeding who had made
the farm visit conceded that the birds were not in distress or pain,
that, although obese, they could still walk, and that they were better
cared for than most chickens raised for food. But he still concluded
that this was "not a good use of these animals." When a vote was taken,
both ban resolutions were overwhelmingly defeated. Some delegates were
influenced by the argument that if the organization disapproved
tube-feeding, who knew what might follow? Why, next year they might
condemn the confinement of veal calves, or the batteries of small,
mechanized cages in which egg-laying hens are kept for their entire
adulthood. Not a bad idea.
Well, there it is. The scientific evidence is pretty much unanimous
in not condemning foie gras, but the evidence is still limited. So,
though it seems unnecessary to stop eating foie gras altogether, the
data is not unambiguous enough to encourage unbridled gorging. For now,
the most sensible policy is to eat just a little of this sublime and
ancient delicacy. Which is what most of us are doing already.
[03-Jul-08] To the anonymous poster, hiding cowardly. That is not scientific proof of anything. There is no doubt that an enlarged liver is painful even if a duck can walk around. If you do your research correctly, you will see that many ducks suffocate from having the tubes forced down their throats. Others, choke from throwing up the mushy corn or have their throats lacerated. Do you find that acceptable also ? Furthermore, this is a discussion about Foie Gras, not HIV or rape. Are you saying that because there is Hiv and rape that we should not care about other issues ? Please tell everyone what you are doing about Hiv and rape if you are so fervent about those causes.
Your lack of compassion for the torture of animals is very telling.
[03-Jul-08] Wayne Berger It seems that the AVMA is in bed with so many industries that it fails to recognise cruel practices. I quote from: http://www.avmahurtsanimals.com/hurts.asp
How the AVMA Hurts Animals
Most
veterinarians would never recommend caging animals so that they are
unable to turn around or comfortably lie down or cramming pipes down
animals’ throats and force-feeding them until their livers become
massively enlarged and diseased. Yet the professional group
representing American veterinarians, the American Veterinary Medical
Association (AVMA), supports these practices.
Unfortunately,
farmed-animal industry representatives have, in most instances to date,
been able to dictate policies surrounding their industries, despite the
obvious and scientifically irrefutable evidence of extreme cruelty
involved in many of the systems and practices employed. As one
veterinarian, Peggy Larson, D.V.M., put it, “[M]ost of the
association’s policies promote animal industries at the expense of …
animal welfare, including promoting practices that cause great harm,
pain and unplanned death.”
Why does the AVMA
support such practices? Says current AVMA President Dr. Bonnie Beaver,
who seems to be honestly attempting to reverse some of the AVMA’s most
obscene positions, “It is important for each of us to recognize that we
may at times become too close to the industries we serve, losing our
objectivity about what is the best welfare and adopting instead that
suggested by the industry.”
Below is a synopsis of just some of the AVMA’s anti-animal positions.
Gestation Crates
“Gestation
crates” are miserably uncomfortable concrete-floored stalls so small
that pigs inside them can’t even turn around. Although the scientific
evidence condemning them as physically and mentally torturous for
mother pigs is overwhelming and uncontested among scientists and
veterinarians with animal welfare as their primary concern, the AVMA
continues to support them. Sows in crates are forced into a constant
cycle of pregnancy and birth and are never allowed to breathe fresh
air, feel the sunshine on their backs, or know a moment’s joy or
contentment.
In addition to torturing these
intelligent animals into complete psychosis, the crates cause the sows’
bones and muscles to atrophy, and the pigs develop painful sores and
lesions. Most of them are lame and very sick by the time they’re
slaughtered. According to industry reports, more than 400,000 are
crippled by the time they arrive at the slaughterhouse.
Clearly the AVMA would not remain silent were dogs so horribly abused, but pigs are smarter than dogs
and just as sensitive and worthy of the AVMA’s concern. Unfortunately,
pigs have anti-animal representatives in positions of power at the
AVMA. The veterinarian who proposed the endorsement for gestation
crates, Dr. David Madsen, is the AVMA delegate from the American
Association of Swine Veterinarians, and he actually admitted in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association that the resolution was a response to animal rights groups’ objections to the use of gestation stalls.
Foie Gras
Despite foie gras
bans all over the world, the AVMA has thus far remained silent
regarding this cruel industry, which shoves long pipes down the throats
of young ducks and geese to pump massive amounts of food into their
stomachs in order to enlarge their livers. The frightened, battered
birds often become too sick to walk when they develop serious liver
disease as a result of the force-feeding.
Ducks and
geese, who naturally form hierarchies and families in the wild, often
tear out their own feathers and even cannibalize each other as a result
of the extreme stress on foie gras farms. A PETA investigation in New
York’s Hudson Valley facility (formerly Commonwealth Enterprises) found
one duck who had a maggot-covered neck wound that was so severe that
water spilled out of it when he drank. Many birds died when their
stomachs burst from overfeeding, and many more developed foot
infections, kidney necrosis, spleen and kidney damage, bruised and
broken bills, and tumor-like lumps in their throats.
Foie gras
farms are so cruel that force-feeding birds has been banned in many
countries, including the U.K. and Switzerland. In 2004, California Gov.
Arnold Schwarzenegger also signed a bill that will outlaw both the
production and sale of foie gras in California. Many restaurants worldwide have removed foie gras from their menus after restaurant owners and their customers learned just how abusive foie gras production really is.
Learn more about foie gras production.
Steel-Jaw Traps Approved
Barbaric steel-jaw traps, which slam onto animals’ limbs and cut into
their flesh, often down to the bone, have been banned in 88 countries
and in a growing number of states across the U.S., including
California, Florida, Rhode Island, New Jersey, Massachusetts, and
Washington state. But while the world moves forward, the AVMA recently
took a step back, weakening its position against trapping with this
preface: “The AVMA recognizes that trapping is a useful and necessary
method for managing … populations.” This comes as no surprise when you
learn that a trapper was reportedly added to the AVMA’s Animal Welfare
Committee to steer the group away from progressive policymaking. These
traps—most commonly used by the fur industry—clamp onto the legs of
wild animals such as foxes and rabbits and can hold them there for days
until trappers return to beat or stomp them to death or to break their
necks. Many animals, especially mothers desperate to return to their
young, will often chew or twist their own legs off in order to escape
these cruel traps. .
Face-Branding Endorsed
For decades, the AVMA has given face-branding the thumbs up. This cruel
procedure involves burning the sensitive skin on cows’ faces with hot
irons. Thankfully, in 1995, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA)
finally dropped its face-branding requirements—no thanks to the AVMA,
which has always been silent on this issue.
[03-Jul-08] John Rabie Well i must say i find it most intriguing that some humans will find ANY excuse to do what they want at another's cost, and especially so when it comes to food. There are so many gourmet, expensive (snobby) items out in the world that do not rely on the suffering of another. As indicated in my letter to you, to which you chose not to respond, Foie Gras defines self indulgent gimme more at any cost greed, posing as sophistication. And anonymous postings clearly indicate the writer doesn't have courage of his / her convictions. How sad.
Foie Gras(yes, along with milk fed veal) is unnecessary - the Romans slaughtered millions of larks (albeit free range) just for their tongues -it seems the more things change, the more they stay the same. [04-Jul-08] Toni Brockhoven This is not rocket science, anonymous. You know its cruel, don't eat it. [04-Jul-08] To Anonymous, there are in fact excellent organisations already working on battery chickens, aids etc - and trying to help 40 million birds who die annually does not exclude any other issues that are of importance. Helping aids orphans does not exlude helping the elderly or cart horses!
Foie Gras has been singled out world wide due to it defining the worst excesses of human greed and self indulgence of the few for fleeting taste, regardless of the cruel and painful process involved.
160kgs to 210kgs of corn mush is force-fed to a single bird during ‘processing’ over three weeks. This would keep a starving family somewhere very well for months. So there, simply by no longing encouraging the supply of Foie Gras one can help humans too. [04-Jul-08] Brian, I enjoy your column and have been reading it for some time even though until I started reading it I never thought I had any interest in the topics. So you could consider me a convert.
Especially as an ex-Capetonian I find your reviews particularly interesting.
However, I have to agree with all of the previous comments to this review of yours.
Wayne has summed it up perfectly with "no-one tells me where to shop" as not being a valid excuse to continue eating foie gras.
Brian, don't be too proud to change 1 easy eating habit. There are obviously many causes out there which people will raise when a controversial issue such as this comes up. But something as blatantly cruel and easy to correct should not take too much thought.
[04-Jul-08] Daniel Add your comment: |
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